RaGa by Gaggan Anand is the most conceptually dense meal I have ever sat through, and I mean that as the highest compliment I know how to give. It asks something of you. It wants you to pay attention, to stay curious, to let go of what you think Indian food looks like.

The best four-hands menus leave you thinking about both chefs long after the meal is over. This one does that. You remember the borsch for Alehina and the pork ribs for Mehrotra, and then you realise that the divisions are not quite that clean, which is exactly the point.

What's shifting is the format, shorter tasting menus, more intentional cocktail programmes, rooms designed to be experienced and not just eaten in