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Writer's pictureTanmaya Kothari

The Flavours of Empire: Unpacking the Historical Nuances of Shimla's Food Culture

Updated: Jul 17

Nestled in the Himalayas, Shimla is a city that boasts more than just breathtaking landscapes and colonial architecture; it is a haven of rich food culture and historical nuances that define its unique character. This op-ed delves into the culinary charm of Shimla, a city where every meal is a journey through time and tradition.


As I wandered through the bustling streets of Shimla, I found myself captivated by the aromas wafting from the local eateries. The fragrance of sizzling momos, the sound of sputtering oil, and the chatter of locals gathered around steaming plates of thupka. It was clear that food played a vital role in the city’s cultural identity. What caught my eye, more like caught my taste buds, was the peculiar blend of Indian, Tibetan and British influences that defined Shimala culinary landscape.


Shimla's food culture is a tapestry woven with influences from its colonial past, its indigenous Himachali heritage and Tibetan traders/refugees. To wrap one’s head around such a blend, let us look at how it came about to be. In the mid-19th century, the British East India Company established Shimla as a summer retreat for its officials, seeking to escape the sweltering heat of the Indian plains. As the city grew, so did its culinary scene, with British expats introducing their own gastronomic traditions to the region. The result was a fascinating fusion of flavors, with Indian spices and ingredients meeting British cooking techniques and sensibilities.


A quintessential dish that exemplifies this fusion is the Himachali mutton curry, often prepared with locally sourced spices and slow-cooked to perfection. Its rich, hearty flavor is a testament to the region’s reliance on fresh, local ingredients and traditional cooking methods. Similarly, the Chana Madra, a yoghurt-based chickpea curry, showcases the Himachali penchant for creamy, spiced dishes that provide warmth in the chilly mountain climate. Not only these but another quite iconic example for cultural exchange is the ‘Shimla Sandwich’. A staple of the city's street food scene, this humble creation consists of thinly sliced vegetables, cheese, and chutney, served between two slices of soft, white bread. At first glance, it may seem like a quintessential British snack, but look closer, and you'll find the subtle influence of Indian spices and chutneys. This is Shimla's food culture– a delicious blend of all its pasts.


Alongside its traditional Himachali fare, Shimla’s colonial past introduced a variety of British culinary staples, many of which have been indigenized over time. High tea remains a beloved tradition in Shimla, with local tea houses serving various teas accompanied by scones, pastries, and finger sandwiches. These establishments often occupy historic buildings, providing patrons with a taste of the past alongside their tea.

One cannot discuss Shimla's food culture without mentioning the iconic Indian Coffee House on Mall Road. Established in the early 20th century, this institution has been a gathering place for intellectuals, artists, and politicians. Its menu offers a mix of South Indian dishes like dosas and idlis, alongside North Indian snacks and the ever-popular coffee. The Indian Coffee House encapsulates Shimla’s ability to harmonize diverse culinary traditions within its historic setting.



The street food in Shimla also reflects its dynamic culinary scene. The bustling Lakkar Bazaar is famous for its roadside stalls offering piping hot aloo tikki, chole bhature, and momos—a nod to the Tibetan influence in the region. These street foods are not only delicious, but they also provide an affordable way for locals and tourists alike to experience the flavours of Shimla.


Beyond its culinary delights, Shimla’s food culture also reflects the city’s complex social dynamics much like every other city. The city’s historic restaurants, like the above-mentioned Indian Coffee house, are a testament to the region’s rich cultural heritage. These institutions, which have been serving locals and tourists alike for generations, offer a glimpse into Shimla's past, when the city was a hub of colonial activity. Today, they remain a symbol of the city's resilience and adaptability, serving up traditional dishes alongside modern twists and innovations.


As I sat down to a steaming plate of momos and some hot tea, I reflected upon all the historical nuances that brought this plate of momos to me at this moment. The flavours, the aromas, the people - everything is connected, an intricate web of cultural exchange and adaption that had been woven over centuries.


Shimla's food culture is more than just a reflection of its colonial past; it's a testament to the city's ability to absorb, adapt, and transform. It's a reminder that even in the most unexpected places, history can be found in the most mundane things – a sandwich, a momo, or a steaming cup of chai. As I finished my meal and prepared to leave Shimla, I knew that the flavours of this enchanting city would stay with me forever, a delicious reminder of the historical nuances that shape our culinary identities.





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