The Science Behind Umami-The Fifth Taste

Sweet, Sour, Salty, and Bitter. We believed these were only 4 flavours that could be tasted, and anything else was just a combination of these 4 basic flavours, but the early 1900s brought about the discovery of Umami, the key to bone-warming joy of gravy made from good stock, meat juices and caramelised meat and veg. It is why something like Marmite is worshipped by the land down under.

Escoffier, the iconic 19th-century French chef, introduced veal stock to the culinary world, confident that a savoury fifth taste was his secret ingredient. Yet, as diners eagerly enjoyed his creations, few paused to consider his theories. Fast forward to today, and chefs are celebrating the validation of what they always knew. In Modena, Massimo Bottura's restaurant, ranked fifth globally, first showcased his five ages of Parmigiano Reggiano in 1995, with different textures and temperatures.

Now, Bottura delights in the realisation that Parmesan might be the Western cuisine's umami peak, elevating his dish to a symphony of "five textures, five temperatures, and five levels of umami." Can you imagine the depth of flavour in each bite, the harmony of taste and texture?

Naming The Taste

“Umami” comes from the Japanese word "Umai," which roughly means deliciousness and was coined by a Japanese chemist at Tokyo University named Kikunae Ikeda. He identified this particular taste in asparagus, tomato, cheese, and meat, but it was most prominent in dashi, a Japanese stock made from kelp, commonly used in Japanese home cooking. He focused on kombu, ultimately identifying glutamate, an amino acid, as the source of savoury flavour. He then learned how to produce it on an industrial scale and patented the well-known flavour enhancer MSG.

Good Glutamate is Key

A quintessential example of umami flavour, articulated by Paul Breslin of Monell University—one of the first to pinpoint umami taste receptors—is found in a slow-cooked broth or soup. Raw meat lacks this umami essence; cooking or ageing it unlocks the amino acids, sometimes resulting in a slightly desiccated, even mouldy aroma akin to a premium steak. Fermentation further amplifies umami, enriching foods like soy sauce, cheese, and cured meats. In the plant kingdom, mushrooms are rich in glutamate, along with child-friendly favourites such as petit pois, sweetcorn, and sweet cherry tomatoes. Notably, human milk stands out among mammalian milks for its high content of MSG.

The Magic Maths of Flavour

What lends bolognese sauce with cheese or a cheeseburger draped in ketchup their irresistible appeal? Laura Santtini, creator of Taste No 5 Umami Paste, suggests that in savoury flavours, “1+1=8.” Umami, derived from glutamates and ribonucleotides present in various foods, is the key. When combined, these umami-rich ingredients elevate each other, offering a flavour profile far greater than their parts. This synergy explains why the fusion of cooked beef, tomato, and cheese creates an exquisite culinary experience and why ham and peas are a perfect pair. It also illustrates the undeniable allure of Smoky Bacon Pringles.

Why we love Umami

Humans have evolved to crave sweetness for its energy-providing sugars and avoid bitterness to sidestep toxins. Umami, a signaling protein, is vital for life due to its amino acids. This prompts two intriguing inquiries. First, why does our umami preference align with cooked or aged foods? Breslin suggests cooking or preserving detoxifies primary protein sources, stating, “The digestion formula involves not only obtaining nutrients but also avoiding illness. Lack of nutrition isn't immediately fatal, but poisoning can be.” The second inquiry is why some low-protein fruits and vegetables are rich in glutamate. With mushrooms, the reason remains elusive, but with tomatoes, it may parallel the sweetness in fruits. “Sugar encourages seed dispersal,” explains Breslin. Perhaps sugar and glutamate combine in these foods to heighten their allure.

The Umami Impact

The discovery of umami has transformed culinary practices worldwide, encouraging chefs to incorporate it into dishes for richer, more satisfying flavours. As this savoury taste becomes more popular, it inspires culinary innovation across the globe. Chefs explore umami-rich ingredients—such as mushrooms, tomatoes, seaweed, and fermented products—to enhance their creations. This appreciation for umami has led to fusion dishes that blend traditional recipes with modern touches, delighting diners with surprising bursts of flavour.

Furthermore, understanding umami has fueled exploration in plant-based cooking, as chefs strive to mimic the depth and richness of meat dishes. By skillfully balancing umami with sweet, salty, sour, and bitter elements, they create dishes that are both delicious and sustainable.

Umami's influence extends to home kitchens as well, where cooks incorporate soy sauce, Parmesan cheese, and miso into everyday meals. This widespread appreciation of umami enriches culinary experiences for everyone, adding depth to cooking and increasing the enjoyment of dining.